Some thoughts and hints that may help you.
Keep it sharp, on the ground and moving in an arc.
This summarizes the key elements of successful scythe use. If nothing
else remember this sentence.
An unmounted blade lying a flat surface is the model for proper blade
position when you're mowing. Make the necessary adjustments to your snath
to achieve this.
Guidlines for fitting a snath:
· Lower grip at your hip or a little higher (top of femur, not
your waist) with blade mounted
· Elbow on lower grip, top grip out of reach by 1-3 inches.
· Upper grip between breast height and chin with blade mounted
Dry fit all snath parts before gluing. Mark positions with a pencil to assist in alignment when glueing.
Keep the lower section of the snath well sealed with linseed oil or other wood sealer.
Take your key into the field with you. Tie a piece of string & surveyors flagging tape to it for visibility.
Please keep the blade guard on the edge while fitting the blade to the snath for the first time. This little caution may save you some band aids.
Tighten the ring clamp screws firmly and evenly but don't over do it. Check their tightness frequently while the setup is new. As the blade seats and the screws may loosen. If cutting in the wet, check the clamp for over-tightness as the wood swells.
Check your hafting angle and adjust. Put one knee to the ground. Use this as a pivot point for the the top handle of the snath. With the scythe on the ground straight in front of you, spot the position of the blade's beard. Pivot the snath clockwise and spot the position of the tip as it aligns with the first mark. The tip should be from 1–3 inches lower than the beard.
An open hafting angle is appropriate for easy mowing conditions. This decreases the shearing action of the blade. A more closed hafting angle increases the angle of shear and is good for more difficult mowing conditions.
Hone the blade in the field often. When you feel the blade loose its "bite" its time to hone. Honing should take less than a minute. A sharp blade has a characteristic crisp sound and easy action as it cuts the grass. A sharp blade does not let the grass slip under it without being cut.
Put the stone in the holder, then fill the holder half full with water and wear it on your belt. Too much water and you'll wet your pants every time you bend over.
Wipe the blade clean before stoning. Use a handful of grass as a mop.
To stone the blade in the field; stand the scythe on end, blade at eye level. Face the BACK of the blade. Hold the blade at the tang end with your left hand. Hold the whetstone by an end in your right hand. Place the stone under the blade and with some upward pressure, draw it away from the edge as you slide it towards the tip. Repeat this in overlapping strokes. Move your right hand along the blade as you use the stone for support. Lightly stroke the back side of the blade to remove any wire edge. Do not bevel the back of the blade, keep it flat.
Aluminum sharpens steel. Use a piece of aluminum rod just as you would your whetstone. Your local welder will probably give you a 6" scrap piece of aluminum rod, any diameter from 3/8" on up will do. Use this as your final hone and you'll strop the edge to a razor polish.
Mowing
Early morning or evening is the best mowing.
You are the center of a circle. The scythe blade describes the circumference of that circle as it travels through the arc of the swing. Do not pull the blade in toward you.
The scythe is not a golf club. DO NOT raise the blade on either the beginning or finish of the stroke. The blade rides on the ground during the entire cutting stroke and skims the ground on the return stroke.
Squarely face the direction you want to go. Legs evenly weighted.
Begin the cutting stroke with the blade at the 3 o'clock position. The blade drawn back to your right. The tip will be facing the direction of your travel.
Engage only the first third (6-8 inches) of the blade into the uncut grass.
The blade cuts on a skew angle. Slicing the grass like a scissor blade.
Finish the stroke at the 9 o'clock position. The blade's point will be facing back.
The windrow of cut grass should form well to your left. If you take a full arc this windrow can be up to 3 feet to your left.
Shift your weight from right to left during the progress of the stroke. As you develop a rhythm, your left foot may be completely unweighted as you start the stroke. In finishing the stroke your right foot will become unweighted. Get loose and learn the dance.
On the back swing the blade is NOT lifted. It just skims the grass. Keep the blade on the ground in both the cutting and return stroke.
Use as little force as is necessary to finish the stroke. The words hacking, whacking, ripping, slashing and chopping are not scythe related. You are rowing ( rhymes with mowing).
Find a pattern of use for each arm. There will be opportunities within the strokes for each to be relaxed and not working.
Both arms power the snath through the circular sweep, the right hand is more of a fulcrum point, while the left hand is more of a lever.
Your left hand will finish behind you at the end of the cutting stroke.
Look behind and admire your work.
Find pleasure in perfecting your mowing skills.
Peening
The cross peen face of the hammer should have a very slight crown across the face. This will allow the head to reach into the hollow of the bladeand make one small contact point. Hammers that we sell are reground to this specification.
Most hammer handles are overly long as they come new. Choke up on the
handle to find a comfortable balance point. Don't be afraid to cut the
handle shorter. The hammers we sell can be shortened about 2½"
for better balance and control. Wrapping the handle with sports tape (hockey
stick tape) will increase control and comfort.
A new blade may take several sessions of peening and honing to achieve maximun sharpness.
Dismount the blade from the snath for better peening.
As the edge approaches final thinness, reduce the force of the hammer.
Work evenly and accurately. Strive for a uniformly beaten edge.
Look closely at the edge as you peen. Try rubbing chalk or wetting the edge with water to help make the hammer strikes more visible while your learning.
Run the flat of your finger nail (or hammer handle) under the edge. If you can see a minute deflection of the cutting edge you are done. Don't peen to this extreme if you intend to cut heavy weeds and woody stems. Give the edge more strength for by leaving it thicker.
Sharpen for your intended use. A long thin cutting edge that is best for fine tender grass will be too weak and fragile if used in tough or woody stems.
Never hammer the post of a peening jig without it having a cap. You may deform the post and the cap may not fit.
Keep your blade out of the hot sun.
For more on peening and sharpening take a look at our video: Peening and Sharpening European Scythe Blades
Copyright © 2001-2008 Scythe Supply. All rights reserved.
